From my journal …

I woke as the soft light crept along the canyon walls and the stars dimmed. We packed up efficiently and sadly, knowing our trip would change completely in a few hours. We took a few farewell group photos and then Michael gathered us around.

Katrina, John, Morgan, Bill, John ... and Michael

“We’re running white water today. These are trough rapids and everyone has to pay attention.” He gave us some final instructions and as we waited for a few last minute items to be loaded, Katrina began to sing Nothing but the Water. There was utter stillness in the canyon and her strong, clear voice echoed while we listened, transfixed. Tears came to my eyes – I was overwhelmed by the experience and the adventure these guides had shared with us.

"Take me down to the water ... gonna wash our souls clean"

Then came time to load up and move out. We hit a big rapid right away, then another. These were definitely more fierce and we were soaked and thrilled. When we came to Hance rapids, we pulled in to shore and hiked up the canyon wall a short way to scout. Michael and the guides discussed the water level (apparently the rapid was “bony”) and made a plan for going down. We watched a science expedition run their motorized boats through – it was clearly difficult.

Scouting Hance

Then it was our turn, and what an experience! The anticipation at the top, the drops, the spins – so exhilarating! I had full confidence that we’d be okay … why? I hate roller coasters, so why do I enjoy this so much?

We continued on and the canyon changed yet again for us. The walls narrowed and the rock changed color, shape, and form. The entire experience was breathtaking. We struggled with a few more rapids, almost getting caught on a wall at one point …

And then, suddenly, it was over. We ate lunch on a small beach near Phantom Ranch. It was a hasty and somber affair and then we said our goodbyes to Morgan, Katrina, and John. One more brief ride with Michael, Bill and John – and we landed on the shore.

We then had to carry ALL of our belongings to the ranch and I enjoyed the added benefit of lugging 4,000 ML of leftover wine (we figured we would need a drink or two that evening!). We straggled in and then located our cabin to find our first toilet since Sunday! Air-conditioning and beds … and showers! We spent some time reflecting and chatting at the Bright Angel Creek and then in a bittersweet moment, washed away the river water.

We toasted our journey with the wine I rescued and ate dinner at the canteen with our hiking guide, Jason. Then off to try and sleep … but it did not come easily, and then not much at all. Where were our stars? Our soft river lapping at the shore?

Next up … the final adventure – hiking out of the Canyon!